A Wimpey no-fines house has external walls made of concrete poured on site, using a mix with no sand (the “fines”), only cement and coarse gravel. George Wimpey & Co built more than 300,000 homes this way from the mid-1940s onwards, mostly for councils, and many are now privately owned. They are classed as non-standard construction, but they are not one of the designated defective PRC types, and many mainstream lenders will consider them. The usual issues are thermal: cold walls, condensation and tired render.
What is no-fines concrete?
Ordinary concrete is a mix of cement, sand and coarse aggregate (gravel or crushed stone). No-fines concrete leaves out the sand. The result is an open-textured, honeycomb-like material full of small voids between the stones.
That had real advantages for post-war housebuilding:
- it used less cement and no sand, both in short supply;
- it could be poured quickly into reusable shuttering, storey by storey, with relatively unskilled labour;
- the voids limit water wicking through the wall, so once rendered the walls resist rain better than you might expect.
The walls are solid, with no cavity, and are almost always rendered or pebbledashed on the outside and plastered on the inside. Floors and roofs are usually conventional, often a timber first floor and a tiled pitched roof.
When were Wimpey no-fines houses built?
BRE’s research report on the system describes Wimpey building more than 300,000 no-fines dwellings from the mid-1940s. Most low-rise examples date from the late 1940s through to the 1970s. Other builders and councils used no-fines too, and similar in-situ concrete systems such as Laing Easiform were built alongside them, so a “concrete council house” isn’t automatically a Wimpey.
You’ll find them on post-war estates across the country, including many towns in Yorkshire, Greater Manchester and Derbyshire.
How to identify a Wimpey no-fines house
There’s no single giveaway, but the combination is usually telling:
- Rendered or pebbledashed walls all over, with no visible brick, on an estate of near-identical houses from the 1940s to the 1970s.
- Solid walls that look noticeably thick at door and window reveals, with no cavity.
- In the loft, the inside face of the gable or party wall is rough, open-textured concrete with visible stones and gaps, not brick or block. This is the most reliable check.
- Drilling into the wall produces grey dust and stones rather than red brick dust.
- The EPC may describe the walls as “system built” or “solid”. You can look up the energy certificate on GOV.UK.
- The council or previous paperwork (Right to Buy documents, earlier surveys) often names the system.
If you’re unsure, ask the agent or seller directly, and tell your lender or broker early.
Are Wimpey no-fines houses mortgageable?
Generally yes, but it’s lender-dependent. No-fines houses are not on the list of PRC types designated defective under the Housing Defects legislation, so there is no PRC repair certificate to obtain. Many mainstream lenders will consider them, subject to a satisfactory valuation, while others decline non-standard construction or apply tighter criteria, such as a larger deposit.
Practical steps:
- Tell your broker or lender the construction type before you apply. Finding out at valuation stage wastes time and money.
- Check buildings insurance early. Some insurers ask about construction type.
- Think about resale. Your buyer will face the same lender questions, which can narrow the market a little.
Our guide to non-standard construction houses explains how no-fines compares with PRC, steel-framed and timber-framed types.
Common problems with no-fines houses
The issues that come up most often on no-fines houses are about warmth, moisture and finishes rather than the structure itself, though structure still needs checking.
Cold walls, condensation and mould
Solid concrete walls with no insulation lose heat readily, and the inner face stays cold. Warm, moist indoor air condenses on it, especially in corners, behind furniture and around window reveals. Black mould on external walls is common in uninsulated no-fines houses. Our guide on how to get rid of black mould covers the practical side, and telling condensation from other damp matters here: a no-fines wall with mould is far more likely to have a condensation problem than rising damp.
Cold bridging
Concrete lintels, floor edges and junctions between wall and roof can be particularly cold spots. Mould tends to show up there first.
Cracked or hollow render
The render protects the concrete from the weather. Over decades it can crack, bulge or become hollow (debonded). Water getting behind it can then soak into the wall and, in winter, freeze. Patch repairs are common; a poorly matched patch can trap moisture.
Cracking in the walls
No-fines walls can show cracks, often running from the corners of openings. Many are old and stable shrinkage or thermal cracks, but each needs reading in context. Our guide to what causes cracks in walls explains how surveyors judge them.
Alterations
Openings cut for new doors or windows, removed internal walls and extensions all need checking. The concrete walls are load-bearing, and later alterations aren’t always done with that in mind.
External wall insulation on no-fines houses
Many no-fines houses, particularly those still owned by councils or housing associations, have been fitted with external wall insulation (EWI): insulation boards fixed to the outside of the wall and finished with new render. Done well, it makes a substantial difference to comfort and condensation.
The Energy Saving Trust notes that external wall insulation should be fitted by a specialist installer trained by an approved system designer, and that repairs to the existing wall, roof overhangs and rainwater goods should be completed first. When buying a house with EWI, ask for:
- the installer’s details and any guarantee, and whether it is transferable;
- confirmation of how it was funded (some went in under government schemes);
- evidence that detailing at windows, eaves and the base was done properly. Poor detailing can let water get behind the insulation.
Also check whether planning permission was needed. It can be required where EWI changes a house’s appearance, especially in a conservation area, so ask your conveyancer to check.
What we check when surveying a no-fines house
On a Wimpey no-fines house we focus on:
- confirming the construction as far as practical, including in the loft;
- the condition of the render or EWI, including hollow areas, cracking and water getting behind it;
- cracking in the walls, and its likely cause and significance;
- damp, condensation and mould, and whether ventilation and heating are adequate;
- lintels, floors and roof, and any alterations to load-bearing walls;
- anything a lender, insurer or your conveyancer is likely to ask about.
A survey is a visual inspection; we don’t break open render or test the concrete. Where something needs further investigation, the report says so clearly.
Should you buy a Wimpey no-fines house?
Plenty of people do, happily. They’re often spacious, solidly built family houses at a lower price than comparable brick houses. Go in with your eyes open:
- confirm lending and insurance before you spend on searches;
- budget for insulation and ventilation improvements if they haven’t been done;
- get a proper survey so you know the condition of the render, walls and any alterations.
For a no-fines house we usually recommend a Home Survey Level 3 (from £570, fixed fee quoted for the property), which goes into more detail on construction and condition. We cover a 90-minute radius of Huddersfield. Get in touch with the address and we’ll confirm what’s involved.
Sources and further reading
- The structural condition of Wimpey No-Fines low-rise dwellings (BR 153) — BRE
- The renovation of no-fines housing — BRE
- Solid wall insulation — Energy Saving Trust
- Housing Act 1985, Part XVI: Assistance for owners of defective housing — legislation.gov.uk